Cleaning

This page dscusses the various cleaning methods and materials for a range of different situations.

Summary

A significant number of faults are simply due to dirt, dust or corrosion interfering with either the mechanical or electrical operation. Different techniques, cleaning agents and tools are available, applicable to different situations, reviewed here.

Safety

Some cleaning agents may irritate the skin or give off inflammable or toxic fumes. Always read the label and work in a well ventilated location if fumes are a potential hazard.

Introduction

(The best way to organise this page may not be apparent until we have decent lists of, on the one hand, cleaning gents, and on the other, cleaning situations.

Please click on the Discuss tab above, then under Other, click Edit Discussion. Add your ideas. No requirement for polished English or well-thought-through contributions.)

Cleaning Agents and materials

There are many proprietary cleaning agents, but here we mainly concentrate on generic ones. Note that some are flammable or may cause skin irritation. Always read the instructions.

• Isopropyl alcohol (also known as IPA or rubbing alcohol).

Very useful for general cleaning, e.g. for removing fingermarks and general grime, excess flux from circuit boards and for cleaning glass and lenses.

• Switch cleaner, e.g. Servisol Super 10.

Good for dirty or corroded switch or battery contacts.

• Air duster aerosol can.

Not very environmentally friendly (an air puffer is preferred) but can be useful if a strong blast is needed to dislodge dust from tight corners such as under the keys of a keyboard or between the vanes of a heatsink. Most contain a gas, in some cases flammable, under sufficient pressure to liquify it. If not held roughly vertically you may get a squirt of liquid instead of a blast of air.

Cleaning tools and materrials

A variety of tools are useful for cleaning, some in conjunction with cleaning agents mentioned above.

• Air puffer.

Preferable on environmental grounds to an aerosol can duster though not as powerful. Useful for blowing dust out of tight corners such as under the keys of a keyboard, or between the vanes of a heatsink.

• Vacuum cleaner.

You can use a domestic vacuum cleaner with a crevice nozzle or a hand-held portable one. Unlike an air puffer or air duster aerosol can, it sucks dust out rather than simply blowing it somewhere else. Especially useful for heavy build-ups of dust.

• Small brushes.

You can get sets of small brushes including a nylon one for light use, a brass one for more agressive cleaning where you don't want to scratch a metal surface under the dirt, and a still more agressive steel one. You might also want to get an antistatic one for cleaning circuit boards.

• Needle file.

This can be useful for removing a heavy build-up of corrosion, though it may be too agressive in some situations as it may damage the surface underneath and leave it roughened.

• Cotton wool buds.

Moistened with isopropyl alcohol, these can be useful for cleaning when there isn't room to get a brush in.

• Paper kitchen towel.

Often useful to have a few sheets to hand to clean up any kind of mess or spillage or for wiping greasy fingers.

• Lens cleaning cloth.

Useful for cleaning lenses, screens and glass generally, especially used in conjunction with isopropyl alcohol.

• Camel hair brush.

This is a standard method of removing dust from a lens.

• Screen cleaning wipes.

As above, but these are single-use and come pre-wetted with cleaning solution

Cleaning Situations

(Note: This section is currently under construction. You can leave any comments under the Discuss tab above.)

Battery contacts

A very common situation is a battery-powered device such as a toy or a radio which has had dead batteries left in it for an extended period. These will have leaked, corroding the contacts in the battery compartment.

First of all, clean off any chemical residue (usually white-ish) with a stiff brush and isopropyl alcohol. If there are still signs of corrosion, continue with more isopropyl or preferably switch cleaner fluid and a stiffer brush. If available, start with a brass brush, and only if necessary, resort to a steel one or a needle file or a piece of emery paper.

Switch contacts

Generally the advice is similar to battery contacts, particularly if moisture has caused corrosion. Otherwise, it will simply be a build-up of dirt which can be removed by less agressive means.

Slide switches sometimes become unreliable due to dirt or mild corrosion. Usually you can squirt isopropyl alcohol or switch cleaner in each end then vigourously operate the switch a good many times in order to clean the contacts.

Connectors

For an internal connector inside a device which has probably never been disassembled since manufacture, disconnecting and reconnecting it may be enough to restore a good connection.

If that isn't sufficient, try isopropyl alcohol with a cotton wool bud or soft brush. Make sure the cotton wool bud doesn't shed any threads of cotton which might then interfere with the contact.

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